halogen heat lamp for plastic bottle blowing molding

halogen heat lamp for plastic bottle blowing molding

Halogen Heat Lamps for Plastic Bottle Blowing: Specs, Physics, and Application

We build halogen heat lamps with one job in mind: making plastic bottle blowing smooth and steady. You need heat that hits fast, stays local, and never scorches the preform. In PET blow molding, that means a heat source you can control with precision—and get close to the material without second-guessing it.

Technical Deep-Dive: Power, Voltage, and Dimensions

Here’s the setup: our lamps usually run on 400V and deliver serious wattage—often 2500W—packed into a compact 300mm tube. That voltage choice matters. It keeps the current lower, which eases the strain on your wiring and makes it practical to run several lamps on one machine without tripping over the power limits. And the short 300mm length? It gives you a clean, focused heating footprint that lines up naturally with the preform’s shoulder and body. So you can match the heater to the tool without wasting space or overthinking the layout.

Material and Design: Why Halogen, Coating, and R7s

Inside, you’ve got a shortwave halogen element housed in a quartz envelope. Quartz is great at transmitting shortwave infrared, and the halogen cycle helps keep the filament stable. In practice, that means more consistent output over time—so you’re not chasing drift shift after shift. Then there’s the reflective coating on the outside. It pushes more energy forward, so less heat goes wandering off. The result is better energy density right where you need it: at the preform surface. And the R7s base? It’s more than just convenient. The bi-pin design gives you solid mechanical hold in the holder and dependable contact alignment. That matters when the machine is vibrating—no flicker, no arcing, just steady performance.

Application and Benefits in Blow Molding

In blow molding, the lamp sits in a reflector housing, positioned close to the preform. The shortwave output heats the PET quickly and evenly, which helps you keep cycle times moving and maintain tight temperature control across the preform wall. Now, with that kind of power—2500W—you do get a lot of heat density. That means the station can get hot, so your machine’s cooling and shielding have to be set up properly. But when it’s right, it just works. You get a drop-in lamp that wires clean, holds its output, and keeps the process stable, hour after hour.