Stop the Burn-Outs on Your SIG Blomax Lines
There is nothing more frustrating than a lamp popping on your SIG Blomax line right in the middle of a run. It kills your momentum, tanks your OEE, and leaves you scrambling. Usually, when these tubes fail early, it’s because of thermal shock or a weak spot in the quartz. It’s a headache you just don’t need. That’s why we built our replacement lamps for Amsler blow molders to actually take the beating these machines put them through. The nuts and bolts These are simple drop-in replacements. They fit the exact footprint and electrical specs of the OEM Amsler units, so you won’t be messing around with rewiring or forcing things into sockets. We spent a lot of time on the filament geometry and gas fill. Why? Because you need that specific short-wave IR heat to soften PET preforms perfectly. You want them pliable, not scorched. Now, here’s the thing about wattage density. To keep your cycle times fast, you need a lot of heat in a small space. But that puts a massive load on your reflectors. If your reflectors are dirty or pitted, the heat bounces right back into the lamp. It’s like trying to breathe in a room with no ventilation—the lamp just overheats and dies. Built to last We used heavy-wall quartz glass so the tube doesn’t bow when things get hot. When a tube bows, the filament shifts. That’s usually where the failure starts. We also beefed up the seals. This keeps the halogen cycle stable for thousands of hours, so you aren’t replacing these every other week. Getting them on the floor Installing them is easy. Pull the old tube, wipe away any carbon buildup on the contacts, and slide the new one in. But a quick tip:don’t just swap one dead lamp. It’s tempting, but you’re better off replacing the whole set in the oven. If you mix old and new lamps, you get uneven heat. That leads to “wonky” bottles with inconsistent wall thickness. One last thing—keep your cooling fans clear. If the ambient heat around the housings builds up, nothing will last as long as it should.